Watch Buying Guide
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Wearing a fine timepiece is a tradition that comes with great prestige. When selecting a watch there are distinctive qualities that you can easily become familiar with by learning some brief tidbits of knowledge. For those who wish to learn how to buy a watch online you have arrived at the right place. Our watch buying guide will help you select the correct timepiece in terms of style, brand and functions that suit your own personal tastes.
Table of Contents
- Watch Features
- Watch Style
- Watch Movements
- Watch Parts
- Watch Cases
- Watch Bands
- Water Resistance
- Watch Maintenance
Watch Features
A watch has the primary function to conveniently display the time in an accurate manner. Finer watches add more timing capabilities with the addition of what is known in horological terms as complications which can include parts such as a calendar window, moon phase display and even the popular stopwatch-like chronograph. It is important to note that chronographs, automatic movements and day-date displays do not necessarily label a watch as complicated. A watch that is considered complicated typically consists of over one thousand parts resulting in more sophisticated functions. Here are the most popular complications found in finer watches.
Calendar
A common occurrence amongst the features of fine watches is the calendar window usually found on the dial at 3 o’clock. Calendar watches will display the date in a small window usually out to 31 days which require you to manually reset the date on months that have less than 31 days.
More sophisticated models will have smarter calendar complications that run an annual calendar for one full year. It will usually only require manual resetting in March or on leap years in February. A perpetual calendar watch will be programmed to automatically adjust to account for leap years and varying lengths of months with no manual reset needed.
Chronograph
A chronograph is a popular complication which enables your watch to be used as a stopwatch. You typically push the chronograph once to start the timing and once to stop the timer. Chronographs will have two to three totalizers or registers which are smaller subdials on the dial face to display hours, minutes and seconds. Automatic chronographs are accurate up to 1/5th of a second while Quartz chronographs measure events down to 1/10th of a second. Chronographs can also be paired with a tachymeter scale to determine average speed covered over a specific distance. The tachymeter scale is usually placed either on the rim of the bezel or around the outside of the dial.
It is important to not confuse chronograph with the distinction “chronometer”. A chronometer is a timepiece certified by the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (or COSC, the official Swiss chronometer inspection body) as being highly accurate. Approximately 3% of all timepieces produced in Switzerland carry this prestigious distinction in which the watches movements are subjected to rigorous tests over a consecutive 15 day and night period in 5 positions at 3 different temperatures. A chronometer may or may not be a chronograph.
World Time and Dual Time Zone (GMT watch)
A world time watch will display 24 city names on the dial or bezel to represent every time zone. This is also helpful for those who conduct business on many different continents or travel abroad. A dual time zone (GMT) watch will display the time where you are located and one other time zone either with twin subdials, an extra hand or a 24-hour scale placed on the dial. This is helpful for those who travel domestically.
Moon Phase Indicator
This complication will display the lunar phases as seen on Earth by illuminating a portion of a circular disc representing the moon that rotates beneath the dial. The moon phase indicator will rotate completely once every 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes.
Multifunction
This is simply the generic term for any non-chronograph watch that displays information such as the month, day, and date in two or three subdials.
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Watch Style
When it comes to choosing a style of watch you will want to consider one that complements your own personal style. This can be determined by how much you will wear the watch and how you will wear it. It should be a reflection of you and your lifestyle or your ‘perceived image’ in the same manner your clothes and automobile are.
When shopping for a fine timepiece you will also want to consider a brand known for prestige, complicated functions, and timeless quality. Ultimately the brand and watch you select should speak to your sensibilities whether they be rich horological history, high style, elegance, modern, traditional or vintage/collectible.
Casual Watches
Casual watches are typically identified by having a round easy-to-read watch face, comfortable band material such as a leather, rubber or fabric band, and features such as seconds hand and date window. Although leather is a light-weight material that fits closely, it is not water-resistant. A rubber band will be water-resistant but not have the aesthetic characteristics of leather. If you are looking for a more durable, water-resistant band you may want to consider a dress watch or fashion watch with a metal band.
Dress Watches
Dress watches are typically identified by having a more distinctive watch face, minute markers, metal bands and diamond or gemstone accents. This style of watch may also have a fine leather band as well. Dress watches can look great in casual situations, but have the appropriate aesthetics to stand out at formal occasions.
Sport Watches
Sport watches usually have a larger, more durable case to house the timer, alarm and other features normally associated with sporting activities. They can be digital or analog with rotating bezels to aid in timing specific events. Typically the band will be plastic or rubber and fine sport watches will carry a heftier price tag.
Fashion Watches
Fashion watches are those that break all the rules and punctuate your personal style while accentuating a sensational outfit. These types will speak to your artistic sensibilities as an extension of your personality. Oversized clunky watch cases are what is in style for modern fashion watches with men’s watches measuring 50 millimeters (2 inches) wide or more. Women also wear men’s fashion watches today as a bold fashion statement. They can work wonders with your accessories by incorporating various styles, colors, and trends. Think of it as the outfit that everyone can wear well.
Luxury Watches
Luxury watches are high-end timepieces that are manufactured from the finest materials with expert craftmanship and exclusivity. These watches can typically retain or increase in value and are often passed from generation to generation as heirlooms. When shopping for luxury watches, consider those with fine features such as Swiss movement, an exhibition caseback, skeletonized dial, and indented bezel markers which display the craftsmanship of the watchmaker.
The Swiss watch industry has built a wealth of knowledge and infrastructure in watchmaking over the centuries and manufacture the finest watches available. Swiss watches sometimes consist of automatic movement made in Switzerland and subsequent assembly elsewhere, although this does not necessarily detract from their value. Overall luxury watches carry great prestige along with the history of the watch manufacturer, and their functions and complications make for great conversation pieces.
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Watch Movements
The movement of a watch is defined by the mechanics that power the ticking of the timepiece. The two main types of movement when referring to analog (non-digital) watches are automatic and quartz.
Automatic
Automatic watches (sometimes called “mechanical”) consist of approximately 130 or more parts that work synchronously to display the current time. Mechanical movements are automatically wound by the movement of your wrist and arm when worn. This allows the gear train to transmit power to the gear mechanisms necessary to mark the passage of time. The kinetic energy of your wrist movements provide energy to an oscillating rotor to keep automatic watches ticking. The most popular type of automatic watches are the Swiss movement (Swiss made), but there is also Japanese movement and so forth. Sometimes they are also referred to as self-winding.
Automatic Watch Maintenance
Swiss watches are most coveted amongst watch collectors (horologists) due to the engineering artistry that is involved in the hundreds of parts within the movement. If an automatic watch is not worn 8-12 hours daily the watch can also be powered with a watch winder. Orbital watch winders make a great collectors gift. You should also manually wind the crown to keep the wheel in motion and oil fluid once every two weeks as to keep the inside mechanism in fine running order. Each watch’s owners manual will give specific details on recommended winding service intervals.
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Automatic Mechanical vs Manual Mechanical
The specific difference between automatic and mechanical movement is that the term mechanical movement refers to a movement based on the mainspring which provides accurate timekeeping when wound slowly and then allowing the spring to unwind in an even motion. An automatic mechanical watch requires no winding and simply wrist movement. A manual mechanical watch needs to be wound on a consistent basis.
Tourbillon
Tourbillon (often misspelled Tourbillion) refers to an addition to the watches escapement designed to counter the effects of gravity for improved accuracy. All watch movements are affected to some extent by gravity due to the gravitational effects on the watch escapement. The escapement essentially drives the timekeeping element of the watch. Solid state (digital watches) are least affected while mechanical watches are affected more. The purpose of the escapement device it to convert continuous rotational motion into an oscillating back and forth motion. This creates the ticking sound produced by watches.
Abraham Louis Breuget, the great French watch engineer and designer, invented the tourbillon in 1795 to ensure greater accuracy in mechanical watch movements. Historically they are the most fascinating complications of mechanical watches and the most visually enticing works of art to grace the wrist. Tourbillon is French for whirlwind or vortex and when witnessed in person, they are an irresistible seduction of complexity and measured dance of movement. The most sought-after tourbillons are often Swiss, German and Chinese made. Due to the sheer complexity, intensive labor and difficulty of manufacturing Tourbillon watches the price of ownership will typically be in the range of $20,000 USD to above $100,000 USD. Tourbillon are the creme de la creme collectible timepieces and adored by the most dedicated horologists (watch collectors).
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Quartz
Quartz watches consist of a series of tiny electronic components that rely on a battery for its energy. The battery transmits its electrical energy to a rotor in order to create an electrical current which is then passed through a magnetic coil to a quartz crystal. The crystal vibrates a high frequency (32,768 times per second) to provide very accurate timekeeping. In order to make the hands move on the watch dial these electrical impulses must pass through a stepping motor which converts the electrical energy into mechanical energy that is needed to turn the gear train. The downside of quartz watches is that the battery needs to be replaced every 2 years or so. They can have analog or digital displays and sometimes feature both. Below are the main types of quartz movements.
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Solar
Solar powered quartz watches store solar energy through the dial face which charges the battery.
Atomic
Atomic watches are calibrated daily through radio signals from atomic clocks located in various locations across the world. These atomic clocks measure time through vibrations in a metal isotope very similar to mercury. Radio waves then transmit the exact time enabling atomic watches to correct themselves.
Other Movements
Various watchmakers have created their own unique types of movements although these are more commonly found amongst non-luxury watches as follows.
Eco-Drive
Created by Citizen who has earned the reputation as a leader in ecologically friendly timepieces. The Citizen Eco-Drive will run continuously in any type of light whether it be natural or artificial without a battery for the lifetime of the watch. It does so by absorbing light through the crystal and dial which is converted into energy via solar cell
Kinetic
Seiko Kinetic watches utilize a Quartz movement without a battery by the watch wearer’s wrist. Inside the watch is a capacitor that when fully charged can store energy for 7-14 days in the men’s models and 3-7 days in the ladies models.
G-Shock
Casio G-Shock watches are for those engaging in intense athletic or rigorous activity while wearing the watch. Through a series of successful tests: Drop Test, Vibration Test, Hammer Test, and Water-Resistance Test, a G-Shock watch is then certified as shock-proof.
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- Shop for the Best Watches by “Watch Movement” up to 70% OFF on Amazon.com
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Watch Parts
On the exterior, watches are marvelous achievements of expert craftsmanship and engineering but within the housing of mechanical watches they reveal themselves to be fascinating complications of miniature timekeeping mechanisms. These complicated parts work in tandem to perform many other functions beyond merely telling the time.
A watch consists of 3 main integrated components, the energy source, the time regulating mechanism, and the display. The mechanical watch derives its energy source from a wound spring and its time keeping mechanism is called its movement. There are a total of about 130 parts in total. Below is a list of the major external and internal parts of a mechanical watch.
External Watch Parts
Dial
The watch face that contains the surface design, numerals and/or indices. Sub-dials are the smaller dials set into the main watch face which are used for additional functions (dates, elapsed times, etc).
Watch Case
The metal housing that contains all the internal parts of the watch. The most common metal is stainless steel. Gold, silver, platinum and titanium are also used. Less expensive watches are usually gold or silver plated brass.
Hands
The watch hands are pointing devices anchored at the center of the watch and rotate in a circular motion around the dial to indicate hours, minutes, seconds, and any other special feature of the watch. Below are the different types of hands.
- Alpha – A slightly tapered hand
- Baton – A narrow hand (sometimes called a stick hand)
- Dauphine – A wide, tapered hand with a facet at the center that runs the length of the hand
- Skeleton – Cutout hands that only reveal the frame
- Luminous – Hand-made of skeleton form, the opening is filled with a luminous substance
Crystal
The cover over the watch face. There are three common types of crystals found in watches. Acrylic crystal is an inexpensive plastic that will allow minor scratches to be buffed from its surface. Mineral crystal consists of several heat-treated elements to create a hardened material that is unusually scratch resistant. Sapphire crystal is the most durable and consequently most expensive being 3 times harder than mineral and 20 times harder than acrylic.
Bezel
The surface ring on the watch that holds the crystal in place by surrounding it. Many sport watches use a rotating ratchet bezel as part of the timing device. For calculations in elapsed timed intervals a rotating bezel will be bi-directional and be able to move clockwise or counter clockwise.
Crown
The crown extends from the case and is pulled out to set the time, date and any other watch settings. Water-resistant watches have high quality crowns that will screw downward into the casing to create a water-tight seal.
Bracelet
The metal band of the watch that is worn around the wrist in which the watch case is affixed to. Bracelets usually consist of stainless steel, gold, or sterling silver detachable links that can be used to adjust the fit of the bracelet.
Strap
A watchband made of leather, rubber, plastic or fabric.
Internal Watch Parts
Mainspring
The energy source that is responsible for powering the watch movement. When the spring is wound the potential energy is stored in the coiled spring to be released to the gear train.
Gear Train
A series of small gears that receive the potential energy from the mainspring which transmits the power to the escapement.
Escapement
The part that receives power transmitted from the gear train and distributes mechanical impulses evenly to properly meter out the passage of time.
Motion Work
A series of parts that receive power from the gear train and escapement that generate the power to turn the watch’s hands.
Balance Wheel
The regulating organ that vibrates on a spiral hairspring. When the balance spring is lengthened or shortened the balance wheel will go faster or slower in order to advance or retard the watch’s mechanical movement. The back and forth motion of the balance spring is called oscillation.
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Watch Cases
The watch case is the metal housing that contains the internal watch movement. Most watch cases are constructed from sturdy, durable stainless steel which contains chromium to prevent corrosion and rust. They are usually silver in color, but can be plated in a layer of gold measuring 1/1000 mm in thickness either completely or partially to add accent to the watch. Through the process of ionic plating or PVD (physical vapor deposition), stainless steel cases can be manufactured in various colors (usually in a matte finish).
Gold Cases
Traditionally most gold watches are yellow gold, but gold watches come in other forms such as rose gold. This is a pinkish tint that occurs from the higher concentrations of copper in its alloy mix. When you are purchasing a watch consider the purity or fineness of the gold as expressed in karats. One karat equals 1/24th of pure gold. This means an 18 karat gold watch is 75% pure gold and a 14 karat gold watch equals 58% pure gold.
Watch cases can also be made from other precious metals such as platinum (only luxury watches), sterling silver, aluminum (extremely corrosion-resistant), tungsten, ceramic, carbon fiber or any other durably solid alloy. Sports watch cases are made from materials that can withstand rugged activities such as hardened rubber, plastic or resin.
Using the information below you can determine the look, size and feel when buying a watch online without ever seeing it in person just by glancing at the watch’s product specifications.
Case Size
Watch cases are measured in millimeters (mm) according to three measurements, case diameter, case thickness, and band width. The red rectangles in the chart provided below are those that refer to this information regarding the watch you are considering for purchase.
Case Diameter
A United States quarter measures 24.26mm in diameter (0.96 inches) which is typically the average size of the face of a ladies watch.
A regulation golf ball measures 42mm in diameter (1.68 inches) which is typically the average size of the face of a men’s watch.
The table below displays data on case diameter measurements for men”s and ladies watch sizes.
| Men's | Women's | |
|---|---|---|
| Extra Small | Less than 36 mm (1.42") | Less than 24mm (.94") |
| Small | Less than 36 mm (1.42") | Less than 24mm (.94") |
| Medium | 37mm to 40mm (1.46" - 1.57") | 24mm to 30mm (.94" - 1.18") |
| Large | 42mm to 46mm (1.65" - 1.81") | 32mm to 36mm (1.26" - 1.42") |
| Extra-Large | 48mm and beyond (1.89" +) | 40mm and beyond (1.57" +) |
Case Thickness
This is a general guide as to how thick or thin a case is when measured in millimeters.
- Thin: 4mm to 6mm (0.16 to 0.24 inches)
- Average: 7mm to 11mm (0.28 to 0.43 inches)
- Large: 12mm to 14mm (0.47 to 0.55 inches)
- Extra-Large: 15mm to 18mm (0.59 to 0.71 inches)
Shapes
A watch case usually has one of 4 common shapes, round, square, rectangular and Tonneau. Below are descriptions of the 4 common wrist watch shapes.
Round
Direct descendants of the popular pocket watch shape. Most sport watches are circular since this is the easiest shape to manufacturer water-resistant.
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Square
More commonly found in fashion watches as they provide more surface area for decoration.
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Rectangular
This shape is more conducive to the dress watch as it is easier to fit under the sleeve.
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Tonneau
This is a unique retro style featuring a slim profile which a tall orientation, flat top and bottom, and sides that bulge out resembling a barrel. Tonneau-shaped watches are considered dress watches.
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Watch Bands
A watch band is essentially what straps the watch case to your wrist whether it be a metal bracelet, leather, rubber, or fabric strap. For a leather strap you may consider a finer grade of leather for a dress watch which can be anything from alligator to patent leather. They are not as durable as metal bracelets, but are easier to replace.
Leather straps are connected using the standard buckle or deployment buckle (butterfly clasp). Metal bracelets consist of individual links joined by a metal-hinged clasp either via deployment buckle, fold over or jewelry clasp. They can be resized to fit your wrist by a local jeweler inexpensively if necessary ($10-$30). The metal bracelet is affixed to the watch case at the lugs with spring bars that enable you to switch to a leather or rubber strap. Higher-end watches have bracelets integrated into the watch case which usually can’t be replaced by a strap.
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- Learn about Water Resistance below or Ask our Experts for a recommendation
Watch Resistance
Water-resistance is required for those who will frequently expose their watch to water whether it be swimming, diving, the shower or dishwashing. Watches will be rated for water-resistance according to depths measured in meters, but keep in mind that the depth rating is a result of tests performed in a laboratory pressure chamber and not real-world sea depths.
If a watch is labeled water-resistant without depth indication then it is designed to only withstand unintentional splashes of water and should never be submerged.
Watches labeled water-resistant with depth indication are suitable for intentional water exposure however it is recommended that you only swim or dive with a watch that has a screw-down crown and a depth rating of 100 meters or more. The screw-down crown (also called ‘screw-in’ and ‘screw-lock’ crown) has a winding stem that screws further into the case to increase it’s water resistance. Below is a highlighted example of a watch with a depth-rating of 3300 feet and where to find this information with the watch’s product specifications when buying a watch online.
Water-Resistance Ratings for ‘Real-World’ usage
ATM: atmosphere (1 ATM = 10 meters)
In Europe bar is often used for ATM
| Depth | ATM | Usage |
|---|---|---|
| 30 meters (100 feet) | 3 ATM | Can withstand rain and splashes of water. Ok for washing and showering. Not suitable for swimming. |
| 50 meters (165 feet) | 5 ATM | Suitable for swimming and high altitude sports (skiing, parachuting, etc). |
| 100 meters (330 feet) | 10 ATM | Suitable for swimming and snorkeling. |
| 200 meters (660 feet) | 20 ATM | Suitable for recreational scuba diving. |
| 300 meters (990 feet) | 30 ATM | Suitable for scuba diving to a depth of 30m up to 2 hours. |
| 500 meters (1650 feet) | 50 ATM | Suitable for scuba diving to a depth of 50m up to 2 hours. |
A watch’s water-resistance is not guaranteed forever. Over time the gaskets or O-rings that create the watertight seals will degrade. Sometimes the opening of the caseback for battery changing can even affect water-resistance. Be sure to never press the buttons underwater. You can always test your watch at a manufacturer authorized service center to ensure your watch can withstand the pressure it was rated for.
Areas of Interest:
- Shop for the Best Watches by “Water-Resistance” up to 70% OFF on Amazon.com
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- Learn about Water Maintenance below or Ask our Experts for a recommendation
Watch Maintenance
Watch maintenance is necessary to maintain it’s look, accuracy and longevity. This can be performed by reading the watch manual that comes with your watch as this will be your most valuable resource. Below are some general tips in caring for your watch.
Watch Case
Wipe with a lint-free microfiber cloth and use a toothpick to extract dirt from crevices. Water-resistant watches can be wiped with warm water and mild soap then dried with a cloth. If you have worn your watch in salty or chlorinated water then rinse the watch in fresh water afterward and dry with a cloth. Wipe your watch with the cloth after heavy perspiration.
Crystal
Be careful to not throw your watch onto hard surfaces such as drawers, countertops and dressers. Not even scratch-resistant crystals are 100% scratch proof. Wrap it in a soft cloth or place into its original watch case (holder)/watch winder after taking it off. If your watch crystal becomes scratched replace it immediately as even hairline cracks can allow moisture and dust in to the internal mechanisms that affect its accuracy.
Metal Bracelets
These can be washed in warm water with mild soap. Use a soft-bristled toothbrush to extract dirt and grime. Dry with a soft cloth.
Leather Straps
Avoid excess contact with water and if it becomes wet wipe it dry with a soft cloth. Wear leather straps loosely in hot weather to avoid absorption of perspiration. Store them in well-ventilated areas.
Winding
Automatic watches are wound by the kinetic movement of your wrist and if not worn for several days will require manual winding. If you do not wear your watch daily, wind the watch twice per week at the same time of day. This will keep it running approximately 40 hours.
Many watch owners switch between one or more automatic watches. If this is the case consider a watch winder that can hold several timepieces to keep your automatic watches properly wound. Higher-end watch winders have a “turn and rest” program which simulates the start and stopping of natural daily activity.
Water-Resistance Maintenance
Never submerge any watch in a hot shower, sauna or hot tub. Even the highest rated water-resistant watches are not built to withstand the extreme heat of these environments. Heat causes the metal parts to expand beyond the rubber gaskets creating small openings that allow water to enter the watch. Extreme temperature changes such as jumping into a cold pool after wearing your watch in a hot tub can also cause damage.
If your watch has a screw-down crown, always ensure it is screwed into the watch case tightly to avoid water penetration.
Always rinse and dry your watch in fresh water after exposing it to salt water. If it has a rotating bezel, turn the bezel several times while rinsing to prevent salt buildup and corrosion of the bezel ring.
If your watch begins to fog due to moisture, bring it to a service professional.
Although some leather straps are water-resistant it is generally a good idea to avoid frequent exposure to water. If you are going to wear your watch while swimming, a metal bracelet, rubber or nylon diver strap is more resistant to damage.
Professional Maintenance Service
It is always a good idea to bring your watch in for professional service every so often for internal, cleaning, oiling and precise sizing. If you notice you watch is running slow, fast, contains moisture or anything else that deviates from it’s original condition then bring it to a professional as soon as possible.
Areas of Interest:
- Browse the Best Luxury Watches
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